Fermented vs Probiotic vs Postbiotic Skincare: What the Labels Mean
These four words get used as if they mean the same thing. They don’t. Fermented describes how an ingredient was made. Probiotic, prebiotic and postbiotic describe what kind of microbial material is involved.
What does “fermented” mean?
An ingredient that yeasts or bacteria have worked on for a period of time, such as a fermented plant extract or a ferment filtrate. It says nothing about whether any microorganisms are left in the product.
What does “probiotic” mean?
The standard scientific definition (FAO/WHO, 2001) is live microorganisms that, in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host. Strictly, that means living bacteria. In practice, many cosmetics labelled “probiotic” contain extracts, lysates or ferments of probiotic strains rather than live cultures, because live bacteria are hard to keep alive in a cream on a shelf.
What does “prebiotic” mean?
A substance that microorganisms feed on, such as certain sugars and fibres. A prebiotic is food for microbes, not the microbes themselves.
What does “postbiotic” mean?
In 2021 the International Scientific Association for Probiotics and Prebiotics (ISAPP) defined a postbiotic as a preparation of inanimate (non-living) microorganisms and/or their components. Many skincare ingredients called “probiotic” on the front of the pack are closer to this definition.
How do I tell which one is in my skincare?
Read the ingredient list, not the front of the box. Names ending in “Ferment”, “Ferment Filtrate” or “Ferment Lysate”, or a bacterial species name followed by “Extract”, tell you a microorganism was involved and roughly how. How to read ferment ingredient names.
Examples from independent Korean brands
- Fermented botanicals: Roséel ferments nine Korean botanicals and Jeju mugwort for 180 days. Roséel RE+ Toner, A$20.99.
- Probiotic strain extracts: ABELTY uses 13 strains cultured from temple kimchi, including Weissella cibaria extract. K-Probiotics Soothing Relief Cream, A$30.
- Ferment filtrate: Dr. Oasis Lab’s mist is 81% Bifida Ferment Filtrate. Supergen Triple Glow Gel Mist, A$39.
Can skincare in Australia claim health benefits from probiotics?
No. In Australia, cosmetics are not allowed to make therapeutic claims; products that do are regulated as therapeutic goods by the TGA. That is why a cosmetic can tell you which strains it contains, but should not tell you it treats or heals anything.
More on Korean fermentation
- Korean fermented skincare: the guide
- Kimchi in skincare: what “temple kimchi probiotics” means
- Temple kimchi: why Korean Buddhist kimchi has no garlic
- Onggi: the Korean earthenware fermentation jar
- What “Bifida Ferment Filtrate” means on a label
- Jeju mugwort (ssuk) in Korean skincare
- How long is skincare fermented?
- A fermented skincare gift for Christmas, in Australia
Every fact about a brand on this page comes from that brand’s own material. These are cosmetic products, and nothing on this page is a therapeutic claim.